Guide · Tips and cartridges
Soldering tip shapes
Chisel, conical, bevel and knife tips compared: what each shape does well, which one to buy first, and how to read Hakko and JBC tip part numbers.
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Short answer
Start with a small chisel tip. Adafruit says a flat, screwdriver-style tip works well for through-hole parts, and a fine point suits very small surface-mount parts.[1] A flat face touches more of the joint than a point, so it moves heat in faster. Add a knife or bevel if you drag-solder rows of pins, and always buy shapes within your station's tip system.
Why the shape matters
A tip's job is to move heat into the joint. Heat crosses where metal touches metal, so the area of tip in contact with the pad and the lead matters more than how sharp the point is.
That is why SparkFun's first fix for a heavy, stubborn joint is a larger tip, before any extra temperature.[2] SparkFun also recommends tinning the tip before each connection and heating the pad and the part at the same time.[3] A thin layer of molten solder on the tip fills the gaps between tip and joint, so heat flows across more of the face.
A fine point does a different job well. It reaches between small, tightly packed parts, but it carries little heat and loses it quickly on a big joint.
The main shapes
| Shape | What it looks like | Good for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chisel (flat, also called screwdriver) | A wedge with two flat faces and a straight edge | Through-hole joints, headers, wires and general repair; Adafruit's pick for through-hole work[1] | A wide chisel can touch neighboring pads on a dense board |
| Conical (fine point) | A round cone that tapers to a point | Very small surface-mount parts, per Adafruit; reaching between tall components | Little contact area, so larger joints heat slowly |
| Bent conical | A fine cone bent at an angle | Reaching around parts at an angle | The same heat limits as a straight cone |
| Bevel (cut cylinder) | A round shaft cut at an angle, leaving an oval flat face | Holding a small pool of solder for touch-up and for dragging along rows of pins | The flat face has to sit flat on the joint to work |
| Knife | A thin blade with a long edge | Dragging along rows of pins and drawing off bridges | Easy to nick neighboring parts |
| Spoon | A small cupped face | Drag soldering with a little reservoir of solder | Listed in JBC's C210 precision range |
Adafruit notes that a solder bridge between joints can usually be drawn off by dragging a hot tip between them,[4] which is where a knife or bevel earns its place.
Which tips to buy first
- One small chisel. Pick a width close to the pads you solder most. It covers kits, headers, wires and most repair work.
- One fine conical tip, only if you work on very small surface-mount parts.
- A knife or bevel if you often drag-solder chips or clear bridges.
- A larger chisel for ground planes, big connectors and heavy wire. See why ground planes are hard to solder.
Buy shapes for the joints you actually make. A large set of fine points adds little if you rarely work on tiny parts.
Reading tip part numbers
Shape names are shared across brands. Part codes are not.
- Hakko T18 (FX-888D and FX-888DX): Hakko groups these tips into shape families B, C, D, I, J and K, with about 29 variants listed when we checked in October 2026, such as T18-B, T18-C1, T18-D08, T18-I and T18-K.[5]
- JBC C210: JBC sorts its C210 cartridges into conical, conical bent, chisel, bevel, spoon, barrel, knife and conformal-coating-removal groups.[6]
- Third-party ranges often reuse familiar codes. Sequre, for example, lists T12-format tips such as T12-K, T12-D24 and T12-BC2, and TS-format tips such as TS-K, TS-B2 and TS-C1.[7]
Each maker defines its own codes, so do not assume a letter means the same shape in two ranges. Before ordering, check the maker's drawing for the shape and the width of the working face, and confirm the tip belongs to your station's system.
Shapes live inside a tip system
A shape is only useful if it fits your handle. You will find chisels in the T12, C245, C210, TS100-style and Hakko T18 ranges, but each range fits its own handles. Choose the tip system first, then the shapes within it. The tip system finder helps if you are not sure which system your station uses.
Looking after any shape
- Keep it tinned. Adafruit's standard is a thin, shiny coat of solder on the working face.[8]
- Never file or sand a plated tip to reshape or clean it. Adafruit says files and abrasives damage the plating and ruin the tip.[8] Buy the shape you need instead.
- If solder stops sticking, see why solder won't stick to the tip.
Next
Questions
What soldering tip shape should a beginner buy?
A small chisel. Adafruit recommends a flat, screwdriver-style tip for through-hole parts, and a flat face puts more metal on the joint than a point. Add a fine conical tip later if you work on very small surface-mount parts.[1]
Is a conical tip good for general soldering?
Not as your only tip. Adafruit suggests a fine point for very small surface-mount parts, but its small contact area makes larger joints slow to heat. SparkFun's first fix for heavy joints is a larger tip.[1][2]
What does the letter in a soldering tip part number mean?
It names a shape family within one maker's range, such as the B, C, D, I, J and K groups in Hakko's T18 tips. Each maker defines its own codes, so check the maker's drawing rather than relying on the letter.[5]
Can I file or sand a soldering tip into a different shape?
No. Adafruit warns that files and abrasives damage a tip's plating and ruin the tip. Buy the shape you need within your tip system instead.[8]
Which tip shape is best for drag soldering?
A shape with a flat or cupped face that holds a small pool of solder: a bevel, knife or spoon. Adafruit notes that a bridge can usually be drawn off by dragging a hot tip between the joints, which these shapes do well.[4]